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China-Central Asia Summit | Special Feature: The Glory of Silk Road in Ancient and Modern Times —— China and Central Asian countries draw a new picture of cultural exchanges.

  Xinhua News Agency, Beijing, May 15th Special feature: the glory of Silk Road, ancient and modern — — China and Central Asian countries draw a new picture of cultural exchanges.

  Xinhua News Agency reporter Qiu Xia

  The Millennium Silk Road is full of vicissitudes. The imprint of the blending of civilizations is fixed in the historical picture scroll and is not erased by time.

  More than 2,000 years ago, Zhang Qian sent a mission to the Western Regions to open the ancient Silk Road across the east and west.

  For more than 2,000 years, China and Central Asia have exchanged needed goods, learned from each other and helped each other, leaving stories and legends for the history of human civilization.

  Civilizations communicate because of diversity, learn from each other because of communication and develop because of mutual learning. Today, China and Central Asian countries have inherited the Silk Road spirit of peaceful cooperation, openness, tolerance, mutual learning and mutual benefit, and are constantly pioneering and innovating in cooperation fields such as archaeology, education, health, tourism, journalism, and local exchanges, so as to jointly build a pluralistic and interactive pattern of people-to-people exchanges and make the friendship lasting for thousands of years more deeply rooted in people’s hearts.

  这是5月11日在陕西历史博物馆拍摄的掐丝团花纹金杯。唐代带把杯除部分器物直接来自中亚粟特,还有部分属于唐人仿制粟特风格的作品,这些物品都是东西方文明通过丝绸之路进行交流互鉴的的珍贵物证。新华社记者李一博摄

  丝路古城展新颜

  “土地沃壤,稼穑备植,林树蓊郁,花果滋茂,多出善马。”1300多年前,中国唐代高僧玄奘途经中亚历史名城撒马尔罕时,记录下令人神往的富饶美景。

  撒马尔罕、塔什干、布哈拉……一座座古老城市如同散布在丝绸之路上的明珠,串联起中国与中亚友好往来的历史记忆。

  然而,一些古城年久失修,亟待保护;一些古迹更是湮没于历史尘埃,等待着“神秘面纱”被揭开的一刻。

  2022年9月,在对乌兹别克斯坦进行国事访问期间,习近平主席为米尔济约耶夫总统准备了一份国礼——中乌合作修复的希瓦古城历史文化遗迹微缩模型。访问前夕,习近平主席在乌兹别克斯坦媒体发表署名文章,其中特别提及:“我2013年访问撒马尔罕时启动的希瓦古城历史古迹保护修复项目已经圆满竣工,让希瓦这座古城更加绚烂夺目。”

  "In the process of restoration, China experts and scholars live in Shiva, and discuss how to carry out their work better every day, and communicate and cooperate directly with local experts and people." Ma Chalib Abdulaev, deputy director of the Scientific Development Promotion Center of the Academy of Sciences of Uzbekistan, said that the restoration work is very difficult. While using modern technology, China experts pay attention to the use of local traditional crafts and materials, and always strive to preserve the original features of the ancient city.

  "China experts always work very hard and treat the ruins of the ancient city of Shiva with care. In the process of working with them, I feel the sincerity of China experts and their cherished attitude towards Uzbek culture. I am very grateful and respect China experts. " Cormier Olimov, a local resident who participated in the restoration of the ancient city of Shiva, said.

  This is the ancient city of Shiva, Uzbekistan, which was filmed on April 29th. Xinhua news agency

  From the ruins of Mingtiepei ancient city in Uzbekistan to the ruins of Lachart ancient city in Isei Crate, Kazakhstan, and then to the ruins of Buddhist temple on the west side of Honghe ancient city in Kyrgyzstan, China and archaeologists from Central Asian countries have made concerted efforts to make the relics that witnessed the blending of civilizations reappear in the world through excavation results.

  In June 2014, the Silk Road: Chang ‘an — The road network of Tianshan Corridor was successfully listed in the World Heritage List. The Millennium Silk Road, connecting points into a line and connecting lines into a network, is a powerful force for China and Central Asian countries to work together to protect cultural heritage.

  Spring breeze melts rain and moistens peaches and plums

  With the "Chinese fever" and "China culture fever" heating up in Central Asian countries, Confucius Institutes and Confucius Classrooms have long been "full of peaches and plums". In recent years, as a "rising star", Luban Workshop is building a new platform for vocational education exchanges and cooperation between China and Central Asian countries.

  The first Luban workshop in Central Asia — — In Luban Workshop, Tajikistan, teachers from China and Tajikistan are conducting exchanges and discussions on thermal energy specialty. Unexpected challenges have made them difficult: there are differences in related formulas and numbers between the two countries. Even if the Chinese teacher speaks a sentence and translates it, the Tajik teacher still can’t understand it. After repeated discussions, teachers from both sides finally found an effective communication method — — Explain theoretical calculation in practical operation.

  Luban Workshop in Tajikistan was jointly built by Tianjin Vocational College of Urban Construction Management and Tajikistan University of Technology, with urban thermal energy application technology and engineering survey technology as the co-construction majors. It has two teaching areas, namely, green energy training center and intelligent surveying and mapping training center, equipped with bilingual teaching materials, training equipment and information-based teaching resources.

  "In Luban Workshop, we can learn to operate advanced equipment, which greatly improves our theoretical and practical knowledge." Saidov, a surveying and mapping student at Tajikistan University of Technology, said.

  On April 12th, in the Luban Workshop in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, Wu Zhengpeng (first from the back row), a teacher from Tianjin Vocational College of Urban Construction Management, explained the practical knowledge of surveying and mapping to students. Luban Workshop in Tajikistan is the first Luban Workshop in Central Asia. Xinhua News Agency (photo by Ospanov)

  Shahriyol Sadurozoda, president of Tajik Luban Workshop and vice-president of Tajikistan Technical University, said that thanks to the joint construction of the "the belt and road initiative" and the joint efforts of the leaders of the two countries, Luban Workshop settled in Tajikistan, which promoted civilized exchanges and educational cooperation and became an example of friendly relations between Tajikistan and China.

  In recent years, the road of educational cooperation between China and Central Asian countries has become wider and wider, the number of international students sent to each other has continued to increase, cooperation and exchanges between universities have become increasingly close, and the joint school-running model has been continuously expanded … … In January 2022, at the video summit of the 30th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and five Central Asian countries, China announced that it planned to provide 1,200 China government scholarships to five Central Asian countries in the next five years, giving priority to the establishment of Confucius Institutes and Confucius Classrooms in Central Asian countries.

  Intersection across time and space centers

  In Almaty, the largest city in Kazakhstan, there is a street named after China people’s musician Xinghai Xian, and not far away there is a street named after Kazakhstan musician Bahad Jean Baikadamov. Two parallel streets record the friendship between two musicians during the war.

  In 1940, Xinghai Xian was sent by the Central Committee of the Communist Party of China from Yan ‘an to Moscow to post-produce and score the documentary Yan ‘an and the Eighth Route Army. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of the Soviet Union in 1941, film production came to a standstill. In 1942, Xinghai Xian moved to Almaty. Unaccompanied and destitute, Xinghai Xian received selfless help from the Baikadamov family. In Almaty, Xinghai Xian composed famous music works such as National Liberation, and based on the deeds of Kazakh national heroes, he created the symphonic poem Oman Geld, which inspired people to fight against fascism.

  Through time, the touching stories of the two musicians have been passed down from generation to generation. Erect monuments, hold concerts, publish books and co-produce films … … Their friendship has been celebrated and remembered, and it has become a precious spiritual wealth in people’s hearts.

  On May 13th, 2019, China and Kazakstan co-produced the feature film "Musician" and held its premiere conference and ceremony in Beijing. The film tells the story of China musician Xinghai Xian who moved to Almaty during World War II and was rescued by Kazakh musicians in a cruel environment. The picture shows the film’s creative staff and guests taking a group photo at the premiere conference. Xinhua News Agency reporter Shen Bohan photo

  Similarly, taking art as a bridge, in 2021, the animated short film "Song of a New China" created by Turkmenistan girl Chris in China was launched, which became an "explosion" of network positive energy. The short film of nearly 8 minutes vividly shows the birth process of march of the volunteers and tells the story of its going from China to the world.

  During the creative period, Chris and friends from China visited the National Anthem Exhibition Hall, Nie Er’s former residence, Nie Er Music Square, EMI Xiaohonglou and other places, collected a lot of written materials and remake more than a thousand old photos, and finally created a short film in the form of freeze-motion animation. "I am very happy to tell the story of the national anthem of New China in an innovative and interesting way. This story deserves to be understood by more people." Chris hopes to shoot more films in the future and show the world a real China.

  In recent years, more and more young people from Central Asian countries have become attached to China and become ambassadors of friendship — — Ruslan, who donated panda blood, Ken Jebeyev, who fought against the epidemic several times, and Ma Wenxuan & HELIP, who lamented that "I am a foreigner, but not an outsider"; …

  Navai, a famous Uzbek poet, said, "There is nothing better than living in friendship." Friends get closer, neighbors get closer. During the frequent visits, China and the people of Central Asian countries have closer hearts and deeper feelings, and will continue to jointly paint a beautiful picture of knowing each other, dating each other and interacting with each other. (Participating in reporters: Zhang Jiye, Li Ao)

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Women, look over here! Four factors erode women’s health? Master the "three cornerstones" of health

According to the survey, the average life expectancy of women is 5-10 years longer than that of men, but the life expectancy gap is gradually narrowing. The reason why women will lose their original health advantages is closely related to bad habits in daily life, especially the following four points will erode women’s health.

1. Decreased activity

Now is a society where men and women are equal. Housework is not limited to women. Women spend less time doing housework, and their activities are also reduced. Coupled with a heavy-flavored diet such as high calorie and high fat, it will cause obesity, especially abdominal obesity, thus increasing the risk of chronic diseases such as coronary heart disease, type 2 diabetes and fatty liver.

2. Bad hobbies

Smoking and alcoholism are no longer exclusive to men. Many women will relieve their worries by smoking and drinking. However, harmful toxic substances and alcohol in cigarettes can poison various organs and systems of the body and increase the risk of respiratory system, digestive system and cardiovascular and cerebrovascular diseases.

3, more and more strong

Nowadays, women are stronger and stronger. They are no longer always crying, coquetry or nagging as before. They keep everything in their hearts, carry things on their own, don’t know how to release pressure, and induce mental illness and digestive system diseases for a long time.

4. Too much pressure

Modern women hold up half the sky and bear no less pressure than men. While taking care of the elderly at home and raising children, they also struggle in the workplace. Because of long-term heavy pressure, endocrine disorder, reducing resistance and increasing the chance of illness.

1. Exercise more.

Women should have at least 30 minutes of moderate-intensity aerobic exercise every day, such as brisk walking, jogging, skipping rope, swimming and practicing yoga. The weekly exercise time should not be less than 4-5 days, which can promote the whole body blood circulation, improve the cardiopulmonary function, enhance the resistance, and also help to release stress and enjoy the body and mind. In addition, women must stay away from cigarettes and second-hand smoke and refuse to drink alcoholic beverages.

2. Reasonable supplementation of calcium and iron

Under the premise of ensuring a balanced nutrition, iron and calcium should be properly supplemented. Because women face menstrual blood loss every month, they should eat more iron-containing foods, such as animal viscera, animal blood and various lean meats. In addition, eat more calcium-containing milk, eggs, beans, bean products, green leafy vegetables and shrimp skin, and ensure that you drink 200 ~ 300ml of milk every day, get proper sunshine, promote calcium absorption and delay osteoporosis.

3. Adjust your mood

Arrange work and rest reasonably, and coordinate the relationship between career and family. You can’t overdraw your physical strength and energy, so that you can combine work and rest; Face everything with a positive and optimistic attitude, eliminate bad emotions such as anxiety and fear in time, not pursue perfection in everything, and vent your emotions by talking to others, having a good cry or exercising.

Tips

After entering the age of 30, women should have a comprehensive physical examination at least once a year. In addition to regular monitoring of blood pressure, blood sugar, blood lipid and weight, they should also be screened for HPV and TCT regularly. After the age of 35, do mammography or breast B-ultrasound examination once a year; Regular monitoring of estrogen after the age of 45. In addition, women should adjust their diet structure, eat more fresh vegetables, fruits and whole grains, and eat 7-8 minutes full for each meal, not overeating or wolfing down; Keep a regular schedule and quit the bad habit of staying up late.

The online manuscript of family doctor shall not be reproduced without authorization.

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Lu ‘an: A New Trend of Decoding Fashion

At the badminton fair, a down jacket was displayed.

Xu Fanting, Director of Trend Training in China District of Paris Nali Luodi Trend Office, interprets fashion trends.

  On the afternoon of December 10th, the Paris Nellie Lodi 2024-2025 International Down Fashion Trend Conference was unveiled at this badminton fair. At the press conference, Xu Fanting, director of trend training in China District of Paris Nali Luoluo Trend Office, gave participants an in-depth interpretation of the fashion trends in the new season in view of the development of down products. (Reporter Wang Juan/Wen Wangli/Figure)

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Where is the way out for domestic beauty products that are difficult to sell at high prices?

Image source @ vision china

After eight days, Hua Xizi finally spoke.

However, the statement did not respond to the high-priced controversy, but reiterated its brand vision as a domestic beauty brand "promoting the beauty of the East and casting a century-old national makeup".

Whether this statement can satisfy consumers who have previously felt "backstab" or not. It is almost a consensus that it is not so easy for "all girls" to buy it.

More and more rational, they are using actions to announce the failure of their price and sentiment cards to the brand.Since the price dispute, they have been saying, "Who is not a domestic product? Who will feel sorry for me?" Take off the emotional binding, while comparing the domestic make-up with the gold price, and measure the cost performance with the accurate price comparison method.

At the same time, it is obvious that Li Jiaqi has had a hard time recently.

Being questioned and apologizing twice failed to quell dissatisfaction. It seems that this matter can’t pass if the powder continues to fall, the topic is constantly derived, and the heat persists for a long time.

Image source @ Little Red Book Davidkwok

Looking back from the time corridor, on the one hand, Li Jiaqi, who has grown into the "first brother" by virtue of his low price advantage and high emotional value, and on the other hand, the light of domestic products, which embodies consumers’ feelings and high cost performance expectations.The rise and fall of the two are so similar and intertwined.

Now, the other side of Li Jiaqi being questioned is the dilemma of domestic beauty cosmetics.

More and more consumers are beginning to feel that domestic products are becoming more and more expensive. They show their feelings and seek resonance by taking screenshots of their past orders on social media.

Image source @ Xiaohongshu Xiao Lv’s embarrassing life

Is this really the case?

Take shanghai jahwa, which owns well-known brands such as Liushen, Meijiajing, herborist, Qichu and Yuze, as an example. According to the announcement of its main business data, the average price of skin care products in the first half of this year and the second quarter of this year increased by 50.42% and 20.16% respectively compared with the same period of last year, which helped its skin care products achieve positive revenue growth.

Image source @ shanghai jahwa’s main business data announcement in the first quarter of 2023

Image source @ shanghai jahwa main business data announcement in the second quarter of 2023

Look at Polaiya, the parent company of Polaiya, Yuefushan and Caitang. In the first quarter of 2023, the skin care products and beauty cosmetics products of Polaiya increased by 21.69% and 23.28% respectively.

Image source @ Proya’s main business data announcement in the first quarter of 2023

In addition, in the first and second quarters of 2023, the average selling price of Marubi skin care products increased by 39.76% and 14.83% respectively, and the average selling price of beauty products increased by 27.22% and 15.90%. In the first half of 2023, the price of skin care products increased by 5.6% and the price of cosmetics increased by 4.9%.

Image source @ Betani 2023 semi-annual report

It can be seen that the price increase that consumers feel is not groundless.

From the main cost performance to "more and more expensive", the rising price of raw materials may be the reason that cannot be ignored.

At present, the key raw materials used by domestic skin care and beauty enterprises mainly rely on imports from the United States, Germany, Japan, South Korea and other countries, such as surfactants for cosmetics, thickeners, high-performance oils and fats, and high-safety preservatives. Therefore, the fluctuation of the supply price of upstream raw materials will indeed greatly affect the beauty and skin care brands.

Since the epidemic, the price increase of some basic raw materials, such as glycerol, has been particularly obvious.

Recently, many giants such as Dow Chemical, Japan PE Co., Ltd., Japan PP Co., Ltd., Sanyo Chemical, Longbai Group, etc. also announced price increases ranging from 5% to 23%, involving cosmetic raw materials such as silicone, surfactant, PMMA, PP, PE and titanium dioxide used as a physical sunscreen, and the price per ton directly exceeded 1,700 yuan.

Polaiya also said in the announcement that the prices of its main products, ruby and active substances with strong efficacy, have increased significantly-the average unit price in the first quarter of 2023 increased by 305.85/kg, an increase of 116.05%.

With the rising cost of raw materials, it is not only domestic brands that raise prices. However, the price increase of international big brands is much milder.

For example, the financial report of consumer goods giant Unilever shows that the price of beauty and health care products rose by 7.5% in fiscal year 2022.

Estee Lauder Group has also raised the price of its products twice in 2023, involving many of its star products, but the increase is relatively limited except Clinique Little Daisy Blush.

Data Source @ Official Flagship Store, Cartography @ Titanium Media APP

In this way,The rising cost caused by the rising price of raw materials is not enough to explain why domestic brands have changed from "flat replacement" to "expensive replacement".

The huge marketing expenses, including the commission of the anchor with goods, are another main reason.

According to the financial report data released by various companies, the sales expenses of various beauty products accounted for about 45% of the revenue in the first half of this year, and the parent company of Perfect Diary, Yixian E-commerce, had the highest proportion, accounting for 61.69%.

Image source @ 么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么

Comparing the marketing expense rate of international brands such as Estee Lauder, Shiseido and L ‘Oreal, which is around 30%, we can see that domestic beauty brands are highly dependent on marketing.

This is actually related to the growth experience of domestic beauty brands.

A few years before the flood of new domestic brands emerged, the grass planting economy was just emerging and the online traffic cost was still relatively low. At that time, most of the new beauty brands were established in a short time, with small capital scale, and their ability to lay offline sales channels was limited. Therefore,In the early days of its establishment, online became the main position for the marketing and sales of domestic beauty brands.

At that time, an unwritten explosive formula was popular in the industry: "5,000 little red books+2,000 Zhihu questions and answers+head anchor with goods = a new brand".Seize the user’s mind and achieve explosive growth through marketing, which has almost become the standard of new brands of domestic beauty.

Take Huaxi Zi in this storm as an example. Founded in 2017, it is experiencing a channel dilemma when it comes into contact with the live broadcast room in Li Jiaqi in 2018. At that time, Li Jiaqi had just defeated Ma Yun in the Double Eleven PK selling lipstick, and began to emerge in the field of e-commerce live broadcast.

Looking back on the five years when Hua Xizi and Li Jiaqi were deeply bound, many sales miracles occurred at this time: in 2019, "double 11" sold 700,000 boxes of loose powder of Hua Xizi; In 2020, "618" Hua Xizi became the first in the turnover list of domestic beauty products with GMV of 235 million yuan, and its revenue jumped from 10 million to several billion. According to the quality statistics, from January to February, 2020, 40% of the sales of Huaxizi flagship store came from the live broadcast room in Li Jiaqi.

Hua Xizi’s growth experience is only a typical representative of domestic beauty, and there are also perfect diaries, orange blossoms, Yuze and so on.

Over-reliance on online marketing has made many domestic beauty products form a revenue-driven growth model.

Take Yixian E-commerce, the parent company of Perfect Diary, which was listed on the US stock market only three years after its birth, as an example. According to its announcement data, from 2018 to 2020, Yixian E-commerce spent 309 million yuan, 1.251 billion yuan and 3.412 billion yuan on sales and marketing respectively, with the highest proportion accounting for 65.2% of the total revenue. With the rising marketing expenses, its scale has also been rapidly expanded.

However, with the contraction of marketing expenses by Perfect Diary, its operating income is also affected simultaneously: in the first quarter and the second quarter of this year, the proportion of marketing expenses of Yixian e-commerce decreased by 7.9% and 2.5% respectively compared with the same period of last year, and the total net income decreased by 14.1% and 9.8% respectively.

More seriously, with the surge in online traffic costs,Many domestic beauty brands are caught in the "strange circle" cycle of exchanging marketing for revenue.That is to say, if marketing is reduced, revenue may decline, but if marketing is maintained, high traffic cost will cause losses, and even it may fall into a negative cycle of more money burning and more losses.

In this way, the price increase has become a natural choice in the dilemma of domestic beauty.

At the same time of rising prices,A large number of domestic beauty brands are disappearing in invisible places.

According to incomplete statistics, from June 2022 to now, there are about 12 cutting-edge makeup brands that have declared bankruptcy/clearance/suspension. Among them, there are some brands that have exploded, such as floating Fomomy and Kale said Colorpedia, which shows that the market competition is fierce.

Cartography: titanium media APP

Consumers’ enthusiasm for buying domestic beauty brands has also begun to cool down.

In this year’s TOP20 of Tmall’s 618 beauty industry, only four domestic brands entered the list, namely Polaiya, Winona, Fumei and Shuguang, and the corresponding rankings were TOP4, TOP9, TOP13 and TOP19.

Image source @ tmall beauty cosmetics

Looking back at the development of domestic beauty brands in the past ten years, the market share has increased from 15% in 2012 to 28.8% in 2021.

However, while we are excited about this, we should also see the fragility of relying on short-term marketing strategies and transferring costs through price increases.

Cosmetics, as a complex mixture of various raw materials, as the core active ingredient and the production technology such as fermentation and synthesis technology, are the key to build its core competitiveness.

In the process of the rise of international beauty products, many brands rely on core ingredients and production process barriers to build a protective city. Take L ‘Oré al’s self-developed Bose factor as an example. Since the successful research in 2000, helena rubinstein, Lancome, Xiuliko, YSL and Yuxi have all participated in Bose factor, occupying the forefront of the anti-aging category. The unique fermentation process of the core ingredient Pitera in the immortal water also helped SK-II build its core competitiveness.

However, R&D capability and core production capability are the disadvantages of domestic brands.

According to the statistics of Dongxing Securities, as of 15th, 2022, the number of patents of Procter & Gamble and Unilever reached 177,154 and 86,074 respectively, and mainly concentrated on inventions with higher gold content and longer patent protection period.

Image source @ Dongxing Securities

According to the data of Tianyancha, the number of patents of shanghai jahwa, Betani, Marubi, Huaxi Bio and Yixian E-commerce are 1650, 244, 396, 646 and 174 respectively, and among the patents in shanghai jahwa, the design category with relatively low gold content accounts for 80.24%; By 2022, Yixian e-commerce has 174 patents worldwide, of which 43 are invention patents.

Image source @ Tianyancha

Image source @ Tianyancha

In addition, domestic beauty products mostly adopt OEM OEM mode, lacking the ability and technology of self-built factory production.

Under this model, the upstream foundry masters the core production technologies such as raw material extraction and preparation, synthetic biotechnology, etc., while the brand side is often caught in homogenization competition, making it difficult to build a brand moat.

Take the category of freeze-dried mask. As a rapidly growing sub-category in recent years, there have been many explosive products. For example, in 2020, the SKU of Yuze freeze-dried mask will reach 2 billion; In 2021, Winona’s double eleven pre-sale freeze-dried mask products were pre-sold in three seconds.

But in fact, these explosions, such as Yuze Centella asiatica reassuring repair mask, Winona soothing repair freeze-dried mask, and Appropriate Herbal Gentian reassuring repair freeze-dried mask, were all made by the same foundry that mastered the core freeze-dried mask technology-Weibo Haitai.

According to the information, Weibo Haitai has cooperated with many brands to list dozens of masks and essence products of herborist, Yuze, L ‘Oreal, Ke Beili, Yiyibucao, Winona, Royal Nifang and Liangliang.

Under such fierce competition of homogeneous products, it is difficult to impress today’s consumers only by fighting for low prices and "selling badly"It has become an industry consensus to improve R&D capability, increase investment in innovation and improve product quality.

In the first half of this year, the proportion of research and development expenses of domestic beauty cosmetics has increased to varying degrees. Huaxi Bio invested 187 million yuan in research and development in the first half of 2023, accounting for more than 6%; Betani’s R&D investment accounted for more than 4%, up 33.58% year-on-year; The R&D expenses of Giant Bio increased year-on-year, reaching 80.75%.

Image source @ 么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么么

In addition to research and development, domestic beauty brands are also making up for shortcomings.

For example, in August this year, the first factory of Yixian E-commerce was put into operation, integrating R&D, manufacturing and quality control, trying to build a moat through self-built factories; Winona gradually diversified her own sales channels, vigorously added more offline, and tried to get rid of single dependence.

Some domestic beauty products have gone abroad and started to show their strength on the international stage.

According to public data, Hua Xizi has been sold to Japan, the United States, Europe and other countries and regions; And relying on "girl’s heart" to win Lolita’s favorite flower knowledge has also caused repercussions in the Japanese market.

The process of the rising of domestic beauty products is doomed to be not smooth sailing. Only by reducing the low cost and increasing the consumption of feelings, a stable and far-reaching brand is bound to fail.

With the continuous evolution of these brands, more possibilities will be created in the future. May a hundred flowers blossom and domestic products become stronger.(This article is the first titanium media APP, written by Yuan Ning, edited by Zhao Hongyu)

references

  1. Q2 Skin Care Products’ Restorative Growth, Focus on Performance Repair and Omni-channel Development of Key Brands in the Future-china galaxy Securities Research Institute
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Japanese beauty cosmetics China is cold: affected by the discharge of nuclear sewage into the sea, high-end market giants compete for key points

Japanese beauty brands are facing a new crisis in China market.

In the past Double Eleven, Japanese beauty brands collectively "disappeared" in the TOP10 sales list. According to the research report of Guojin Securities, the top ten brands sold by Amoy beauty shops during this year’s Double Eleven period were Polaiya, L ‘Oreal, Lancome, Estee Lauder, Winona, Mystery of Sea Blue, Olay, Xiuliko, helena rubinstein and Guerlain, and none of them were Japanese makeup brands. According to media observation, this is the first time that the Japanese makeup brand SK-Il has fallen out of the top ten since 2016, and it is also the first time that Shiseido, a Japanese makeup brand, has been out of the list since it entered the top ten in 2017. Both of them have occupied the list for many years.

Bai Wen Xi, chief economist of IPG China, told 21st century business herald that the impact of Japanese nuclear sewage discharge on Japanese cosmetics was an important factor, which led to the continuous fermentation of consumers’ resistance to Japanese cosmetics. In addition, domestic beauty brands performed strongly during the Double Eleven period. For example, brands such as Polaiya occupied the leading position in the beauty category for the first time, which may be another factor affecting the sales of Japanese makeup brands.

At present, the days of Japanese beauty brands are not easy. Take Shiseido, a well-known Japanese cosmetics brand, as an example. Last week, Shiseido lowered its annual profit forecast, and then its share price fell sharply. On November 13th, the share price of Shiseido in Japan once fell by 14%, the biggest drop in 36 years. As of 9: 00 am on November 20th, Shiseido’s share price rebounded to 4,329 yen, and its share price has fallen by 40.07% since the beginning of the year. Shiseido said that the demand from consumers in China slowed down due to the Japanese nuclear sewage discharged into the sea, and the sales in China decreased by about 10% in the third quarter. The company believes that the impact of nuclear sewage discharge will last until the first quarter of 2024. As of the first half of this year, the China market was Shiseido’s largest market.

Shiseido’s situation is just a microcosm of the cold reception of Japanese beauty brands. Judging from the performance of the third quarterly report this year, the performance of Japanese cosmetics on behalf of enterprises is lacking. In contrast, domestic cosmetics brands gradually occupy the mainstream in China market.

Why do Japanese cosmetics brands gradually regress in China market? At present, Kose Group and other Japanese cosmetics brands are still overweight the China market. What are the future development prospects?

Japanese beauty cosmetics encounter waterloo in China

For many Japanese beauty brands, this year’s Double Eleven may be a stress test. But obviously, the result is not satisfactory.

Judging from the achievements of the Double Eleven, Japanese beauty cosmetics not only failed to rank among the top ten beauty shops in Amoy Department, but also lost the list of the top ten brands of GMV in the category of double eleven beauty and skin care in Tik Tok this year. Poor performance in China market has directly affected the performance of many Japanese beauty companies.

Japan’s Shiseido Group released its financial report for the first three quarters of 2023. The financial report shows that its net sales decreased by 5.3% year-on-year to 722.4 billion yen (about RMB 34.752 billion), and its core operating profit decreased by 53% to 8.8 billion yen. Among them, Shiseido’s sales in China decreased by 9% this quarter, which directly offset the growth in the first half of the year. In the same period, China market also retreated to Shiseido’s second largest market. The same situation also appeared in Kao, Polaroid, Kose and other Japanese cosmetics companies.

Kao Group, the parent company of Kerun and Fulifang Silk, released its third-quarter financial report. The company’s net sales decreased by 0.2% year-on-year to 1.13 trillion yen, and its net profit decreased by 44.2% year-on-year. In the third quarter, which was most affected by the nuclear sewage incident, sales fell by 1.6% to 387.4 billion yen. Kao said in the financial report that the group’s cosmetics business lost 1.6 billion yen mainly due to the sharp decline in sales in China. Coincidentally, POLA Polaroid Group also named in its third-quarter financial report that it had to slow down its store expansion plan in China due to the impact of Japanese nuclear sewage discharge into the sea.

Since August this year, due to the nuclear sewage discharge incident, the sales of Japanese cosmetics in China and South Korea have been greatly hindered, which can be described as the "black swan" incident of Japanese cosmetics.

Chen Li, a researcher at Anbang think tank, told 21st century business herald that Japanese cosmetics suffered a brand crisis after the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant announced that it would discharge sewage. Consumers in China thought that Japanese chemical products would be affected by nuclear sewage, labeled them as "unsafe" and turned to other substitutes. Whether the quality of Japanese cosmetics will be affected by this incident or not, the action of discharging nuclear sewage has caused negative feelings of China consumers about "Made in Japan", which is a big blow to the Japanese beauty industry.

In addition, Chen Li also believes that Japanese beauty products are cold in China, largely because consumers are increasingly inclined to choose domestic brands.

Since the news that Japan’s nuclear sewage was discharged into the sea came out, online discussions about the safety of Japanese cosmetics have come and gone, which directly affected the export of Japanese cosmetics. According to the data of the General Administration of Customs, since May this year, China’s cosmetics imported from Japan began to show a significant decline. Among them, the import value in June decreased by 8.4% year-on-year; In July, the import value dropped by 30% year-on-year.

Chen Li said that from the product point of view, although Japanese cosmetics brands have always paid attention to R&D, in recent years, domestic brands have also made major breakthroughs in product R&D, which is more cost-effective, more in line with the habits of consumers in China, and has reduced the attractiveness of Japanese cosmetics to the China market to some extent. From the brand point of view, the international influence of Japanese cosmetics is not as good as that of European and American brands. Domestic brands are also expanding their influence with the trend of "cultural self-confidence" and "national rejuvenation", so the brand power of Japanese cosmetics is squeezed.

According to the report of the Capital Securities Industry, China Customs data show that China’s cosmetics imports mainly come from Japan, South Korea, France, Britain, the United States and other places. From 2015 to 2022, China’s total cosmetics imports from Japan increased from US$ 488 million to US$ 4.987 billion, an increase of over 10 times. However, since the beginning of this year, the total amount of imported cosmetics in China has shown a downward trend. The total amount of imported cosmetics from Japan has continued to decline since March, and the total amount of imported cosmetics from Japan in the first quarter fell by 11.73% year-on-year.

Domestic head brands accelerate to occupy the market.

At present, the domestic cosmetics market has ushered in a new round of reshuffle. The most striking difference is that the phenomenon that foreign cosmetic brands dominate the China market is gone forever.

According to Huajing Industrial Research Institute, the market share of China cosmetics market in 2021 will be 28.8%, 16.2%, 30.1%, 8.3% and 4.3% for China, French, Korean and Japanese brands respectively. At a time when many Japanese cosmetics brands are in decline, the rise of domestic brands has become a bright color. According to the data of beauty industry media, in this year’s Double Eleven list, domestic brand Polaiya won the first place in the list of Tmall and Tik Tok double 11 skin care brands. Among them, in the list of Tmall double 11 skin care brands, Polaiya beat L ‘Oreal with a GMV of 2.219 billion yuan.

Chen Li said, "China’s economy continues to recover, consumers are more rational, pay more attention to the cost performance of products, and pursue products with favorable prices while ensuring quality." In addition, Chen Li believes that consumers show enthusiastic concern about the ingredients of products and whether the ingredients of products are safe or not, while domestic cosmeceutical brands start with "biological ingredients and" herbal raw materials "and achieve a sudden emergence, further squeezing the Japanese cosmeceutical market.

Bai Wenxi also holds a similar view. He told reporters that the reasons for the rise of domestic brands may include the improvement of product quality and the effective marketing strategy.

Some analysts believe that in recent years, domestic skin care brands have paid more attention to the concepts of mild conditioning, natural no addition and no stimulation. Take Polaiya, a domestic brand, as an example. In order to meet the demand of whitening, it relies on the concept of "early C and late A" to force L ‘Oré al, Lancome, Estee Lauder and other big brands in sales. In this regard, Bai Wenxi believes that for beauty products, the focus of consumers’ attention now may include the quality, effect and safety of products, as well as the influence and reputation of brands. In this respect, the performance of Japanese beauty cosmetics lags behind other brands, because the popularity and recognition of its products in China market are relatively low, and its marketing strategy and product positioning may not meet the needs and preferences of China consumers. Chen Li also believes that Japan may not be as agile as domestic brands in capturing and responding to China’s hot trends.

In order to seize the China market, Japanese beauty cosmetics bet on high-end beauty consumption. Take Shiseido as an example. In 2021, Shiseido sold popular brands such as Secret Language of Water and Sibeiqi, and put more resources on high-end brands such as Shiseido, CPB and THE GINZA. At the same time, Shiseido focuses on the China market and increases investment in market production and R&D.. Recently, Shiseido also launched a small program of "Watching the United States and Japan", and cooperated with jnto, Hoshino Group, Japan Airlines and other institutions and companies to introduce Japanese tourism and cultural consultation and promote Japanese tourists’ consumption in.

Chen Li said that Shiseido should concentrate on its core business by reorganizing its business resources and reducing its mass brands. In the case of economic recovery, enterprises will give priority to reducing costs and increasing efficiency. This move is in line with the global beauty market as a whole to the "high-end" direction, and is also in line with the strategic layout direction of Japanese cosmetics brands such as Shiseido in China.

However, some analysts believe that the cold consumption of high-end beauty cosmetics in the past two years has become another factor affecting the performance of Japanese makeup brands. According to the data of Tencent Marketing Insight (TMI) and Boston Consulting Group (BCG), the domestic high-end beauty market has maintained a high growth rate of 20% in the past few years, and the growth rate reached 41.8% in 2021, but there was a slight correction of 2% in 2022.

Nevertheless, the interviewed experts still believe that the fast-growing high-end product track is the key strategy for Japanese beauty brands to increase their market share in China. However, in this field, Japanese makeup brands also encounter great challenges. In March this year, the Japanese cosmetics group POLA announced that it would shut down high-end brands Amplitude and ITRIM, and Shuizhiao H2O Company will also complete liquidation this year. This year, POLA Group will cut off three brands.

According to Euromonitor’s data, since 2017, the sales of high-end beauty cosmetics in the China market have maintained an average annual growth rate of more than 23%, and it is expected that it will completely surpass popular beauty cosmetics by 2025. This means that the competition for high-end market will become the "general battlefield" of the next head beauty enterprises, and it is also the key for enterprises to win the market initiative and voice in the next 10 years.

How can Japanese cosmetics, which have been overtaken step by step, regain the China market? Chen Li believes that "if Japanese beauty companies want to continue to pay attention to the China market, they should pay attention to the competition in the high-end product track, keep up with the demand of the consumer market in China, and create’ efficacy first’ big items according to the skin quality, aesthetics and psychological portraits of China consumers, and constantly expand the matrix of big items."

(21st century business herald)